The rites of spring become a rite of passage in Tom Marshak’s upcoming exhibition Zvončari, which follows the young people joining a centuries-old Croatian mountain procession
Few things spark joy like the arrival of spring. From the scented blossoming of magnolias and cherry plums to the return of brighter days, the good season dawns as we gradually emerge from the gloominess of winter. Photographer Tom Marshak tells Dazed, “This sense of rebirth is what animates the festivities taking over Croatian towns with the New Year, culminating in the riveting masked parades spreading across the country’s valleys in the run-up to Ash Wednesday.”
A tradition handed down from generation to generation, for its youngest participants the Croatian springtime extravaganza feels like a timeless initiation into adulthood. Manifesting itself as a walk through the mountainous towns enclosing the city of Rijeka, Croatia’s largest carnival sees hundreds of costumed teens come together alongside their older counterparts in a celebration of life, harmony and nature.
Fascinated by the idea of experiencing its local folklore up close, Marshak flew to Rijeka to witness this year’s masquerade frenzy. Intent on capturing its uncanny atmosphere, with the support of the Croatian Ministry of Culture, Marshak infiltrated the plangent ranks of its festive bustle, with the sense of “rapidly becoming one of their own”.
His photo series Zvončari offers us a window into the Croatian rituals tied to an enduring devotion to the land, and a desire to “reconnect with the Earth, our inner self and others”. Stretching back beyond medieval Europe to pagan rites marking the start of the spring harvest, the festival was born as a fertility ceremony but, over the centuries, has evolved to become one last outburst of life ahead Lent – a 40-day period of introspection and self-denial.
“Today, Rijeka’s folkloristic euphoria promotes the values of balance, wisdom and understanding as pivotal for the survival of the world around us,” Marshak says. “In both its pagan and religious interpretations, the event looks at the power of human cohesion to counter and outlive the threats posed by ‘the evil forces’ inhabiting each one of us, fostering empathy, prosperity and stability in an age of sociopolitical and environmental crisis.”
For Marshak, who found out about it via a Croatian friend of his, Zvončari – which translates as “bell ringers”, a reference to one of the traditional costumes worn in the festival – speaks of his quest to “portray the infinite quirks of ordinary life”. Tracing the spectacular journey marching from village to village across the Kastav region, the photographer observed: “From its opening ceremony to its closing night, the Rijeka carnival brings ancient sounds and dances as well as burning effigies, fireworks, colours, food, and wine back into the streets that have hosted it through the centuries.”
“Coming from London to Croatia’s endless mountains and the small towns nestled in between them – where everybody knows each other, united by nature, old customs and traditions – reminded me of the life we could have if only we wanted to.” Of the river of masks flowing into Rijeka’s alleys and beyond, Marshak’s camera was drawn to the teenage participants, whom he photographed as a symbol of hope. “What got me was seeing hundreds of kids walk strong and fearless for miles, bearing the weight of their heavy gowns and bells, to preserve their heritage and beliefs and honour the land they live on.”
While world leaders fail to take action on climate change, further delaying the rise of a sustainable economy, Marshak observes that “looking at young revellers attempting to get into the adults’ shoes made me realise that the legacy of the planet lies in the hands of today’s youth.” Among the 20-something shots gathered in Zvončari (some of which will be the focus of an exhibition of the same title open at London’s POCKO gallery between April 26 and May 26) an image of three children candidly leaning on each other’s shoulders, resting after hours of uninterrupted marching and gazing out at the vast forest before them, is possibly the most evocative representation of the vision at the heart of the project. “To me, that photograph evokes all the harmony and unconditional support nurtured by the younger generation in their fight for a better future,” the photographer says. “After all, their awareness and connection to the Earth are the only things that can heal the damages we created.”
Tom Marshak’s Zvončari opens at London’s POCKO gallery from April 26 until May 26.
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